How to Make a Patchwork Dress from an Old Quilt
Last summer my friend Laura found an old quilt in a charity shop and made a fabulous quilt coat out of it. But the quilt was so large that when she was done she still had enough fabric left over and she passed it on to me. Honestly, there's nothing better than being gifted gorgeous reclaimed fabric!
While I had thought I'd use the remants of the quilt for my very own quilt coat, the beautiful floral patchwork reminded me very much of my little girl, so I decided in the end to turn the quilt into a little patchwork dress.
Turning an old quilt into clothing isn’t quite the same as working with ordinary fabric. It has quirks, which make it rather fun, but also a little tricky. If you’ve ever wondered how to sew with quilted fabric or what to look for when choosing a quilt to upcycle, here’s everything I know to help you get going.
Why Sew with Quilted Fabric?
Quilted clothing is having a real moment, and it's no surprise since making clothes out of quilts allows you to make beautiful patchwork clothing with much less work. Quilted fabric has beautiful texture and structure, and if you're using a vintage quilt then you have the benefit of special features like hand stitching, unusual patterns and timeworn colours.
Old quilts are often made from natural fibres like cotton, linen and wool, and they have a lovely softness that comes from years of use and washing.
But there are a few things to consider before you start a quilt sewing project. They can be bulky, and sometimes have a fair amount of wear and tear from years of love. But with a little planning, they can make the most delightful garments.
Choosing the Right Quilt for Sewing
Not all quilts are equally suited for turning into clothing. If you find one in a charity shop or at a flea market, here are a few things to check before bringing it home:
1. Fabric Type: Look for natural fibers like cotton or linen. Synthetics aren't as breathable as natural fabrics, and if you're making clothing out of your quilt you'll want it to be nice and breathable so it's comfortable to wear.
2. Condition: Vintage quilts can have fragile sections that won’t hold up to being turned into a garment. Some wear is part of the charm, but be mindful of thin or threadbare spots.
3. Bulk: A heavy quilt might be too bulky to turn into clothing. Hold it up and imagine it as a dress or jacket - does it feel comfortable to wear?
4. Pattern & Layout: Think about how the patchwork will translate onto your finished garment. Try laying your pattern piece over the quilt to see whether the scale works. Large-scale designs might not translate well into small garment pieces (like those used for children's patterns).
Tips for Sewing with an Old Quilt
Sewing with quilted fabric is different from working with regular fabric. Here are my top tips for getting a good result:
1. Look for the Sturdiest Sections
An old quilt might have some spots that are more worn than others. Instead of discarding the whole thing, pick out the strongest areas for the main parts of your garment.
2. Mind the Bulk
Quilts are obviously bulky, which needs to be taken into account as you sew with them. To keep things neat:
- Trim excess batting from seam allowances after sewing. This helps seams to lie flatter after pressing
- Use a walking foot on your sewing machine to help thick layers move through evenly.
- Press seams open instead of to one side when possible.
3. Use the Right Tools
Normal pins will struggle to hold together bulky layers. Try using quilt clips and quilting pins to hold together your pieces before you sew.
4. Choose a Simple Pattern
Quilted fabric already has structure and texture, so it shines best in simple, unfussy designs. Anything with too many darts, pleats, or gathers will be tricky to sew due to the bulk of the fabric.
For this project, I used a simple pinafore sewing pattern with a gathered skirt to show off the pretty patchwork panel without adding too much bulk.
Consider that you may have to adapt your pattern slightly to account for the fact that you're using quilted fabric. For example, when I was making this patchwork dress I had to bind the raw edges with bias binding rather than using a lining, since the lining was already attached as part of my quilt. You may also want to increase the seam allowance to account for the extra bulk of the fabric.
5. Make the Most of Existing Finishes
If you can, use an existing finished edge to reduce the amount of work you have to do. Some quilts have pretty scalloped or bound edges which can look really special as the bottom hem of your new garment.
Where to Buy Quilts to Upcycle
Quilts can be found in all the usual secondhand places - eBay, Etsy, Facebook Marketplace and Vinted. If you want to specifically look for quilts that are no longer usuable as quilts, search for terms like 'quilt pieces', 'quilts for upcycling' or 'cutter quilts'.
Quilts tend to be easier to find in the US so if you're in the UK like me you'll be able to find more options if you're willing to ship from abroad.
How I Made My Little Patchwork Dress
You can head over to Instagram to see the process I used to make this dress. I used the Liv Pinafore pattern by Flora Child Co and I absolutely love the end result! I had to make a few changes to the construction to account for making it out of a quilt, namely that I used bias binding around the raw edges, and reduced the amount of gathering to the skirt so that it didn't become too bulky.
If you like this project you might also be interested in this project turning fabric scraps into all sizes of bow!
